Members of the Hui Muslim community often run Bao Du, a renowned snack from Beijing with a rich history. The earliest record of Bao Du dates back to the Qianlong era of the Qing Dynasty. Every year, as autumn transitions to winter, halal restaurants and street vendors across Beijing begin selling Bao Du. The city’s most famous Bao Du spots include “Bao Du Shi” in Tianqiao and “Bao Du Yang” in Menkuang Hutong, along with other legendary vendors such as Bao Du Feng and Bao Du Man.
Prepare Bao Du by cleaning and slicing fresh beef or lamb tripe (specifically from the omasum and reticulum) into thin strips, followed by a quick blanch in boiling water. We immediately dip the hot tripe into a sauce consisting of sesame paste, vinegar, chili oil, fermented tofu, cilantro, and green onions. This quick blanching method preserves the tripe’s fresh, tender, and slightly crisp texture, which contrasts beautifully with the rich, tangy flavors of the sauce.
Lamb bao du, a traditional specialty, involved meticulous selection of specific parts of the lamb’s stomach. Diners could choose from delicacies such as du ban (stomach plate), du hulu (stomach gourd), du san dan (scattered stomach), du mogu (stomach mushroom), and du ren (stomach core). Each part required precise cooking times, with the most tender pieces needing only a few seconds in boiling water. In recent years, due to high demand and challenges in sourcing fresh tripe, the classic practice of serving specific tripe parts has largely disappeared.
Beyond freshness, the key to perfect Bao Du is timing. The blanching, or “bao,” must be just right—if undercooked or overcooked, the tripe can turn chewy or lose its characteristic crispness. As a Beijing food poem once noted: “In and out of the broth in mere seconds, just warm, seasoned perfectly with a good drink. If the texture is excessively chewy, people tend to swallow it whole. The poem also describes Bao Du’s unique texture: “Small pieces of fresh lamb tripe, dipped quickly in broth, emerge as a delicacy, tender yet crisp, meant to be swallowed whole.” People celebrate Bao Du for its tenderness and crispiness, as each part requires careful attention to cooking time.
Hui Muslims historically prepared Bao Du almost exclusively, handling it with great care and discarding any tripe with an odor, which contributed to the dish’s esteemed reputation. Among Beijing’s theater community, many celebrated performers were avid fans of Bao Du. Famous Peking Opera stars like Mei Lanfang, Ma Lianliang, Xiao Mogu, Xiao Bai Yushuang, and Li Wanchun were known for their love of the dish. People say that its crisp, fresh taste, which is neither oily nor greasy, aids in digestion.
Beijing locals have long enjoyed pairing Bao Du with a couple of warm, freshly baked sesame buns and a bit of spirits, especially during late summer, following a saying that “to savor autumn, you must eat Bao Du.” Since the Qianlong era, the famous spots for Bao Du have included Bao Du Shi in Tianqiao, Bao Du Wang in Dong’an Market, and Bao Du Zhang near the back gate, alongside Bao Du Yang, Bao Du Feng, and Bao Du Man, which each have their loyal followings.
Previously, the preparation of Lamb Bao Du was meticulous, allowing diners to select specific parts and varying the cooking times for each part. In recent years, as fresh tripe supplies have become more challenging, vendors have moved away from offering part selection. Still, Bao Du’s charm lies in its precise cooking and freshness. Beijing locals, opera stars, and fans of this unique culinary tradition enjoy Bao Du most during the late summer “eating autumn” period in traditional Beijing culture.
Phoenix Lee https://chinese-tradition.com/beijing-bao-du-a-century-old-tradition-of-quick-cooked-tripe-delicacies.html