Sugar-coated hawthorn skewers, or bingtanghulu, offer a perfect balance of sweet and sour flavors, appealing to both the young and the old. Not only are they delicious, but they’re also visually striking. The bright red hawthorn fruits are threaded onto bamboo sticks, arranged by size, and coated with a transparent sugar glaze that gives them a gleaming, crystal-like appearance. Vendors often display these skewers on specially designed wooden sticks, resembling a little tree heavy with bright, tempting fruits.
In past years, during the Chinese New Year temple fairs in Beijing, particularly around the Factory Temple (Changgan Temple), you could often see long strings of sugar-coated hawthorn skewers topped with small colorful flags. Some of these strings would have over a hundred hawthorn berries, their bamboo skewers bent under the weight of the fruit, swaying as they were held in hand—adding to the festive atmosphere.
As for the origin of sugar-coated hawthorn skewers, the story traces back to the Song Dynasty, specifically to Emperor Guangzong (Zhao Ting) of the Southern Song. Emperor Guangzong, born in 1147, was the third son of Emperor Xiaozong of Song. In 1187, after his father’s abdication, he ascended the throne, taking the era name Shaoxi. During his reign, his beloved consort, Empress Huang, suffered from a long-standing illness. Despite trying various expensive treatments, her condition didn’t improve. In desperation, the emperor put up a public notice seeking a cure. A wandering doctor entered the palace and suggested a remedy involving boiled rock candy and hawthorn fruit. He advised that Empress Huang eat five to ten hawthorns before each meal. Initially, the court was skeptical, but the treatment worked, and Empress Huang recovered within a month, much to the emperor’s delight.
This method spread to the common people, who began selling the hawthorn fruits strung together, and so the tradition of sugar-coated hawthorn skewers was born.
Hawthorn has long been valued for its medicinal properties. It aids digestion, helps with blood circulation, and is especially effective in alleviating indigestion caused by meat. In fact, the renowned Ming Dynasty herbalist Li Shizhen once noted that adding hawthorn to a tough stew would help tenderize the meat, demonstrating its power to promote digestion. Modern research also shows that hawthorn can lower blood cholesterol and triglycerides, making it even more popular today. Despite the many variations of hawthorn-based treats, the classic sugar-coated hawthorn skewer remains a beloved snack.
Phoenix Lee https://chinese-tradition.com/sugar-coated-hawthorn-skewers-a-sweet-chinese-tradition.html